Pilgrim Friends and the Cathedral

The lovely breakfast room of the Parador is on the upper level, overlooking the huge Plaza de Orbeidorio with the grand Cathedral of Santiago on the left. The cathedral is not the largest or most ornate in Spain, but is one of the most important. The facade is undergoing restoration, so the entry is now through one of the lessor side doors. The huge retablo behind the altar has statuary of St James, the patron Saint of Spain and the name of the Camino and city (Tiago is James in Spanish, so Santiago is St James). The top statue is of St James on a rearing horse, representing the origin of the legend of St James appearing in a significant battle, fighting and defeating the Moors. The middle one is of St James as a Pilgrim, and the lower and most important is of St James as saint. One of the rituals of the pilgrimage, is to walk up the worn marble steps behind the altar, embrace the silver and jeweled statue, and offer a prayer of thanksgiving for a safe arrival.

The huge Pilgrim Mass is at noon every day. Even though there are not many pilgrims here yet, there were 6 priests in attendance and the 1000 seat cathedral was packed with people standing in the back of the nave and crossing. A priest announced the nationalities of organized groups, and those starting in various towns along the way. From Roncesvalles, only Italy and USA were represented. At the end of the service, a group of men in maroon robes appears, lowers the large silver censor or incense burner, lights it, starts it swinging across the crossing in front of the altar, and using the ropes, they pull and swing it so it is almost hitting the ceiling. Meanwhile, a huge cloud of incense is billowing out and the fire can be seen through the grates Spectacular! In the 'olden days', it was thought the incense would fumigate the dirty, stinky, and often diseased pilgrims.

The vestments of the priests and the altar cloth are embroidered with the red sword of  Santiago. Under the massive alter is the silver casket and tomb of St James.

While walking around town, my British friend, Terry, found me. I met him on the Meseta on Day 20 and walked with him on day 27 and 28. We has a convivial beer together, and I invited him to join my American friend, Janet, from Day 18, for dinner. Janet arrived with a new friend, Petra, from Germany. We had tapas and wine, then dinner at a seafood restaurant. As you know, I am not a big fan of fish, but here it is very fresh and I had others to help guide me. I had hake, a mild white fish, very good, while the others ordered sautéed squid, excellent, and the local specialty, sautéed octopus, or pulpo, fabulous. We shared our various meals and a bottle of red wine, vino tinto de Rioja. A fabulous evening and great fun.

Terry leaves today, but I will see Janet and Petra tonight. Stay tuned, you still need to see the Parador, designed as a pilgrim hospital under the order of Queen Isabella in 1492, opened in 1501, and in modern times converted to a luxury hotel.