I stopped for coffee at the last village before the Meseta starts, at the same bar with the same jovial bar tender. He again gave me a tiny Virgin Mary medal to help me on my way. Hornillos is as I remembered it, except for a pleasant walk with green fields, and 2 new albergues. The only Casa Rural was full, no one would help with a phone call to the other 2, so I am in a new albergue in a room for only 4. Only 1 bathroom upstairs and 1 down, so the morning may be interesting.
Last night I attended a 5 pm Mass. This turned out to be a huge big deal, it was held on the central nave of the cathedral (regular mass is held in a large side chapel), attended by 11 alter boys, 15 priests, several medieval dressed heralds (?), a choir back in the choir stalls, and presided over by the Archbishop. All the pomp and circumstance were there. And the place was packed.
The 8 pm Procession started almost an hour late, but it too was a big deal. The plaza held several thousand people, with hundreds more in the procession. I don't understand what it was all about, but about 10 groups of about 50 people in different robes, capes and hoods slowly came in, then the big climax of the huge floats of Mary and Jesus, entered from each side of the plaza, each carried by about 8 men meet in the middle. A long sermon ensued, then all slowly left. I managed to return to the hotel by the back way, was in bed by 10:30, still hearing the band and drums. All became noisier, and the procession came right under my window about 11. Talking to a Canadian couple here, they heard the drums until about 4 am. This is definitely a different culture.
Tomorrow, another day on the Meseta.
Wonderful to read your stories each day... Especially exited to learn what your experience during these holy days ��
ReplyDeleteMilly