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Thursday, April 30, 2015

From Parador to Seminario

The massive Parador, on the right side from the front of the Cathedral of Santiago and anchoring one side of the Plaza de Obradorio, is the oldest continuously operating hotel in the world. Although it opened as a hospital, pilgrims also were able to stay in it. The building was originally made around 2 interior courtyards, then 2 more were added a bit later. An ornate chapel  with upper level  balconies on 3 sides occupies the central crossing. The 4th side has a full length window opening into a small room. This room is now a meeting or dining room, but was originally used for the very sick and dying pilgrims. In the corner is a stone spiral staircase going down to the chapel. The patients could hear the mass through the window, and the priest could use the spiral stairs to come up quickly to give them last rites. The old vaulted stone stables are now the high end dining room. There are meeting and conference rooms and comfortable lounges scattered around the front part of the Parador. The Pilgrim Dining Room is located back by my courtyard. It is behind a service area and quite small and plain. The story is the hotel will serve a free meal to the first 10 Pilgrims who show up. I can't quite figure out how that worked, I never saw any pilgrims or employees back there.

I am now back to reality, and have moved to the San Martin Seminario Majore, only perhaps a 1/2 block away, located opposite the side of the Cathedral. I heard a guide describe the building as the 2nd largest historic building in Spain. It is so large, the photo can't show it all. Looking at the front, the right wing is a museum, now closed for renovation, the middle has a large church and cloister, the left is now a hotel. As I write this, I am in a sitting area on the 2nd floor, where there are normal wooden doors to what look like fairly large hotel rooms at normal prices. My Pilgrim room is on the 4th floor, which has about 80 rooms for pilgrims. This is the best deal in Santiago, for only €23 a night, you have a private room with bath, complete with fresh sheets, a large  towel and bar of soap, AND a breakfast buffet. This whole building used to be a Seminary, so the pilgrim rooms are what's left of where the students lived. It much better than the large, open rooms, bunk beds and unisex living of the albergues, but the Princess is missing her Parador!

There is rain today through when I leave for London. Tomorrow is a holiday so everything will be closed, but Saturday there is a festival next to the historic center. I will see Janet again tonight, Petra left for home. Friday Albert, from Holland, arrives; he is finishing the rugged Camino del Norte. Saturday, I will meet my 2 Australian Princesses I first  met on Day 3. This is truly a small world.




















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