Day 13 Villafranca Montes de Oca to Atapuerca

11.3 miles on another gorgeous day for a walk. This time the trail takes a steep up for a 650' elevation gain to get over the big hills. The walk is through oak and pine woodlands to the tiny village of San Juan de Ortega, where after 8 miles it is time for a rest. The Romanesque church is much larger and more ornate than you would expect for being in such an out of the way place and small population. This is a popular end point for the day, however it only has an albergue which will house 70 pilgrims,  a 5 room guest house, and very small bar. I was much  happier last night with a little more civilization.  Today I would have preferred to go further, but Burgos is too far, and accommodations in the villages inbetween are iffy.

Atapuerca is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, due to the discover of 900,000 year old Hominoid bones in the caves in the area. It appears that Homo Antecessor lived concurrently with Heidleberg Man and the Neandertals, and many modern Europeans are descendants.

All continues to go well.

Day 12 Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca

8.5 miles, an easy walk on another lovely mild day. The Belorado  innkeeper, Paul, said many groups of Spamish Pilgrims are walking this week. Sure enough, there areany more Pilgrims on the trail, and I have met several groups of Australians. Another story is how Paul, formerly from Holland, is married to a Nicuragan, operating a tiny inn of 3 rooms for Pilgrims only in Belorado.

I am in a lovely hotel, not only is it the same hotel I stayed at before, but also the same room. Most pilgrims are continuing on to the top of the mountain, where accommodations and the 1 bar there are pretty grim. Paul reports it is substandard for even the basic albergues. I had previously decided to take it easier for the next several days and not do the long distances required, plus enjoy my creature comforts while I can.

Day 11 Santo Domimgo de la Calzada to Belorado

14.2 miles with many paths similar to yesterday, however much of today was on paths along the road. Another mild, sunny, beautiful day with gorgeous scenery. Today I have entered the giant province of Castile y Leon, home of Burgos, Leon, the great plains or Meseta, and the ancestral home of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella who sent Columbus on his voyage of discovery of the New World.  I ended up leaving an hour later then normal due to a change to daylight savings time, so I didn't arrive at my tiny pensione until 2. Clothes were washed in a pail in the kitchen sink (on 2nd floor), then hung out to dry by leaning out the adjacent window and pinning them to the line in the sun. We take our modern conveinces for granted. The window has a lovely view of the storks, nesting in the top of the old church.

Perhaps because I started later, perhaps because "next week" is here, there are many more pilgrims on the trail. The American/Ugandan couple I met a few days ago are in my same little pensione. Due to their schedules, they start their long journey home tomorrow.

The book has 2 long days walks to Burgos; since I am in no hurry, I will divide it into 3 moderate days. And then I get a total rest day in the historical center of Burgos. All continues to mosey along well, other than being physically tired I have no complaints. The walk through this empty and green country is a joy.

Day 10 Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

13 miles, a perfect, gorgeous day for a long walk: sunny, cool, no wind. The path today is generally hard packed well drained farm roads across gently rolling vineyards and farmland. Beautiful views,  and only 5 other pilgrims. The locals say the pilgrims will appear next week. We'll see.

The walk ended in the historic city of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Santo Domingo helped create part of the pilgrimage route, started a hospital here in the 1100's for the pilgrims, and is buried in the opulent great cathedral here. The church also houses 2 live chickens; you can google for the legend of the chickens and why they are here.

I am about 1/4 of the way, so as a reward, I have treated myself to an overnight in the local Parador, a historic building now owned and operated by the Spanish government as a special hotel. This one used to be a pilgrim hospital, not the original one, but built on the late 1500's. It is FAB, as is the lunch I just enjoyed in the dining room. There is a special Pilgrim rate, which makes it more affordable.

Tomorrow is Sunday, everything will be closed, and another long day awaits.

Day 9 Navarette to Najera

10.5 miles and SUN! It was an altogether nice day for a walk in this beautiful country. Cool, some wind, but NO rain! The paths were generally well drained, with big puddles easy to get around, and only about a 1/2 mile section of mud over a hill, great views. The weird part is I walked almost the entire way without seeing any other pilgrims. I am either way ahead or way behind the other pilgrims.   And there are apparently few pilgrims right now; the word is next week there will be more as the weather warms.There were no intermediate villages along the way, so no rest stops until arriving in Najera. Fortunately, I trained by walking 2 -4 hours with no break, so this feels pretty normal. However, having a village and a coffee break is a wonderful thing; perhaps tomorrow.

The journey is going well, my progress is moving along as I had hoped.

Day 8 Logrono to Navarrete

Only 8 miles today, a purposefuly short day. The book has this stage at 18.5 miles. I see no reason to push for that distance, so I am  in the only village on the direct route. Today was cold again, but warming somewhat, occasional light rain, and wind generally coming from the front. The really good news is few muddy places on the trail. It surprises me how much fighting the elements drains your strength. Today I was hungry, so had a wonderful Pilgrim lunch with grilled fresh salmon, and another entire bottle of a lovely local Rioja red wine (one glass is plenty for me). I am now 'chilled out' in my simple room, resting up for a bigger day tomorrow.

Logrono 

All my worldly possessions in the backpack and fanny pack

Day 7 Viana to Logrono

6 miles, an easy day today except for the flooded paths. Cold, occasional light rain, and even the sun came out for a bit. I have now entered the Rioja district, famous for its wines. Logrono is another historic old city with narrow streets in the old section, the great cathedral is magnificent and even has Michelangelo painting in the back under heavy glass. I  am getting to really like the Camino Princess idea, so am at another inexpensive very nice hotel with key card, minibar and large fluffy towels. When you have to use your own small microfiber towel at the albergue with no heat until 6pm, one appreciate all these all luxuries.

I found some boot wax at the supermarket, so have used the bidet to clean my boots before trying to improve their waterproofing. As you see the photos, there is a fast running "stream" rushing across the path, with water almost to the top of the 4X4 blocks. A fair amount of muddy paths today and several small lakes to get around. This is why the boots get wet. The big river here in town is way over it's banks and running really fast.

Met an interesting couple at breakfast, they are from Fresno, but live in Uganda and have dual citizenship. She is a librarian and he has started a NGO. They are walking for only 9 days, in tennis shoes, and having a rough time.

Last night I had a glass of wine with my Aussie friends, had a wonderful visit and ..... 3 glasses of very nice local red wine was a total of 2.70 euros! It is about impossible to get one glass of wine at home for that price.

All continues to be good, I appreciate all your feedback, it really keeps me connected.